San Diego Dining

The dining room was chic and sophisticated. Seats and banquettes were made of fine black leather. Chihuly-like glass chandeliers hung in an atrium that reached into the mezzanine-level restaurant. Tabletops were a smooth metallic-like finish. Lighting was designed to flatter, not illuminate. Exposed weathered brick gave the room a seasoned feeling. A circular private dining room had woven leather walls and a built-in niche for candles to create a warm, romantic glow. The effect was casual and elegant.

To emphasize being hip and trendy, the bathroom was unisex, although floor to ceiling doors assured privacy. The point -- this restaurant is COOL.

But, for the most part, the restaurant was also empty. Granted, I came on a Sunday night, before the beginning of the workweek. But there were still only three other couples dining in the large space.

It seems that San Diegans have not yet discovered the cleverly named Suite & Tender restaurant, located downtown in the Se San Diego Hotel. This boutique hotel was developed in the old Jessop & Son's Jewelry building, with 184 rooms, suites and planned condos that promise the latest in comfort and luxury.

The entrance to the lobby is unique. A massive 8-foot-long, 4.5-ton bronze door pivots seemingly effortlessly and opens to a lobby that is decorated with black ebony columns, beads, crystals, unique carpeting and a silk-draped chandelier. There is no "reception desk." Guests sign in at comfortable custom bureaus. It is similar to checking in at many five-star hotels in Hong Kong or Bangkok.

Rooms are large, with 10-foot ceilings and custom floor-to-ceiling headboards. The colors contrast chocolate with silver. Bathrooms feature teak vanities and rain showerheads.

Suites are 1,000 square feet, with balconies and kitchens that include the latest in appliances. The penthouse, 5,000 square feet in which to entertain your closest friends, is three stories of living space, with a private sundeck and dining room table that seats 16.

The developers have made huge effort to create something really special in a boutique hotel and perhaps have kept it low key in order to be more appealing to celebrities --- much in the way Two Bunch Palm in Palm Desert offers a place where celebrities can be themselves without fearing they will be accosted continually by well-meaning but meddlesome fans. Until a few weeks ago, I was unaware of the hotel, although it has been open for a year.

The developers also continued their huge effort to create a special place by creating a special restaurant, Suite & Tender. To do so, they hired a truly exciting chef to create the menus and to oversee the execution. They brought in Christopher Lee.

Chef Lee is a California product, trained at San Francisco's California Culinary Academy. He worked at such great restaurants in New York as Daniel, Jean Georges, and Oceana, where he did magic things with seafood. He's been honored by Gourmet Magazine, Food & Wine Magazine and the prestigious James Beard Foundation. While serving as executive chef at Gilt, he earned for the restaurant two stars from Michelin. He is a high-powered chef, from whom San Diego may expect great things.

The menu at Suite & Tender changes every season. The new fall menu just came into effect. "When it comes to cooking food, my philosophy is simple; fresh, seasonal ingredients, experimentation, teamwork and most importantly, having fun," he said.

The two-page menu offers limited choices. One page lists items on the raw bar, specialty drinks and desserts. Entrée choices are listed as ocean, land, suite and tender and classic steaks. Jason Jones, the affable general manager who recently transplanted from the Wolgang Puck operations in Las Vegas, describes the room as a "steakhouse." Most menu categories offer only three choices.

Under "Greens," the listing of appetizers included a Fresh Lobster Salad that had only three small bits of orange and some watercress as "vegetables." The lobster was cold, disappointingly rubbery and flat tasting.

Other appetizers include Duck Confit with Napa cabbage and candied walnuts. Kobe Beef Carpaccio had added flavor from the pickled scallions.

King salmon, wild sea bass and seared tuna were the seafood choices. Chicken breast, lamb chops and roast pork loin were listed for meat and poultry dishes. Combination dishes included lobster and braised short ribs. This time the lobster was full of its superb flavor, which suffused even into the buttered corn. The short rib had little fat and was very tasty. Presentation was lovely. The dishes were decorative rather than filling.

Wine selection by the glass was offered in an interesting way. Choices are arranged by three tiers of quality and price, with pours ranging in sizes and prices to make it possible to create one's own flight to sample wines across a broad spectrum with dinner. There is also a "bottomless glass" available with refills of the chosen wine. Of course, wines by the bottle are listed, with many unique choices from the United States and foreign vineyards.

Prices by San Diego standards are on the expensive to very expensive side. Even parking is expensive, that may be one of the reasons so few diners were present when I attended. Also, given the reputation and quality of chef Lee, I would have liked to see an expanded list of choices with greater representation on the menu of his obvious talents.

Suite & Tender has the potential to bring a heightened level of sophistication and excellence to our local dining scene. It is worth supporting and encouraging. The restaurant is located at 1047 Fifth Ave., close to Broadway. The restaurant is also open for breakfast. Call 619-515-3003 for information and reservations.